Shirt collar over jacket lapel. This is the standard on single breasted suits and is used on nearly all suit jackets blazers and sports jackets. The notched lapel american english step lapel or step collar british english is sewn to the collar at an angle creating a step effect. I think a collar over a lapel would have a retro look that if deliberate enough could be marvelous. Should i wear my shirt collar over my suit lapel.
At sobecane as mentioned above you could bend collar stays to get a roll and also use a magnet but ensure that the magnet is placed as close to the tip of metal stay possible to eliminate the gap between your collar tip and shirt front that your lapel is getting stuck in as shown in your photo. If you have an overly huge collar then it is obvious that the collar is not meant to be worn inside your jackets lapel. It may be reaching critical mass at the current pitti uomo the twice a year menswear tradeshowparade of silliness held in florence italy. Think brad pitt in oceans eleven.
In the late 70s both collars and lapels were wide and laid open shirt over lapel usually. Lately though ive seen a lot of bright patterned call your travel agent shirts worn with tailored jackets with collar points roaming free over the lapels. Most of the time the shirt collar over the coat collar does not work that well. How big is the collar of your shirt to begin with.
If you are. Its hard to generalize but if we had to in a formal event the collars go inside. Thats why its called the notch lapel and basically its connecting this front part of the jacket to the shoulder part right here to the collar. Personally i can never find collared shirts that both look okay on me and fit under a jacket properly i have broad shoulders and shirts that fit across the shoulders always seem to have too much fabric around the neck somehow to look right.
If your collar is smaller or medium sized then you have the choice. But when factoring in the proportion formula on matching tie width with the lapel andor the shirt collar width suddenly knit ties begin to work better with suits. More recently i see the collar tucked in. The problem with knit ties is that most of them are just too skinny and this fact alone throws off the overall proportions of the suit.
It was acceptable in the 70s when collars were really big. Id love to hear angies take on this. This jacket again this type of lapel is perfectly fine for everything except formal wear.